July 17, 2004

Following are the cruising notes for our sail in Croatia, so far. We hope our Croatian friends will forgive us for omitting accents over many letters!

You will find the notes from last month here.

Dubrovnik, Croatia (June 13-14, 2004)

About 150 NM from Otranto, we left at 5 am and did an overnighter. Caught a 4 kg yellowfin tuna. And when we dropped the lure about four meters after the boat to clean it we caught a second tuna, which we handed over to Swedish friends on yacht CIE while at sea!

We checked into Croatia at Gruz, the commercial harbor of Dubrovnik. A few walks between the police and harbor master offices completed the clearance. We paid 1431 kuna (1 euro = 7 kuna) for the cruising permit. They only accept kuna, but there is a bank machine nearby. Papers needed are: crew list, passports, ships papers and insurance. No need for the extensive lists of dutiable goods that the pilot books are describing.

There is a small marina in Gruz. Bad holding. Very noisy road passes 3 meters from the boats. We decided to go to Dubrovnik marina although they charge 40 euros/night including water and electricity. Good supermarket. Watch out for the cats that visit boats at night in search of food!

Slano (mainland) June 15-19

The village was badly damaged in the war but is slowly being rebuilt. Some restaurants, a small grocery store, friendly people. The beautiful school yard is worth a look! Several places to anchor in the large bay. Good holding.

Otok Korcula: Uvala Luka June 19-22

Convenient anchorage close to town. Had to reset a couple of times when the wind direction changed. Korcula town is very pretty, although touristy, and has several internet points. The large Konzum supermarket was strangely understocked. Good local wine in small bodega.

Otok: Luka Vinogradisce June 22-24

Popular anchorage, very crowded. Clear water. Good mussels at restaurant. Footpath to marina across the island where you can buy bread.

Otok Brac: Lucice June 24-27

Picked up a mooring buoy. This season they were free, due to administrative debacle. Lovely unspoilt bay, small restaurant ashore (no sign) serving "fish or meat". Possible to walk to Milna town (about 35 minutes) across island - not recommended in hot weather!

Otok Hvar: Stari Grad June 27-29

Pretty town. We anchored across the bay from the marina, perfect! Bodega with good local wine. OK shops. Bus service to Hvar town recommended, instead of taking own boat there (crowded).

Otok Vis: Vis town June 29-July 1

Another beautiful town, interesting architecture. Anchored in the inner harbour close to fuel pontoon and monastery. Good internet cafe (they are hard to find on the islands!).

Otok Vis: Rukavac July 1-2

Stopped overnight to take dinghy to Green Grotto, a cave on island Ravnik closeby. Good holding but not very sheltered.

Otok Vis: Komiza July 2-4

A favorite town, laidback atmosphere, active fishing village. Tried anchoring in harbour but wind and sea maid us search shelter at town quay. Paid 185 kuna for one night. Later anchored outside harbour close to diving center. Very good local wine sold in a "hole in the wall" next to harbour master's office.

Otok Drvenik Veli: Drvenik July 4-9

A favorite anchorage. There is a free pontoon (no water, electricity or mooring lines) where we stayed one night. Later anchored in inner harbour, off the ferry landing.  Set two forward anchors to prevent swinging in variable winds. Konoba/Atelje Tramontana is well worth a visit. Finnish artist Heljä Tramontana displays her art and her Croatian husband Marinko cooks great food. Highly recommended. Lovely couple. Heljä took us on a hike in the hills to look for herbs and interesting stones. Great island for hikes - early in the morning!

Rogoznica: Uvala Stupin (mainland) July 9-11

Recommended to us as a sheltered anchorage. Not pretty, lots of construction going on. Dinghied into the sleepy town, found small supermarket.

Skradin (mainland) July 11-14

A must-see. We anchored in the first of the three small bays across from the marina. Tripper boats to the waterfalls start at 8 - catch the first one as the Krka National Park gets very crowded mid day. The park is beautiful. We brought a picnic lunch and spent several hours. Entry fee was 60 kuna/person, boatride included.

Just south of the new bridge we found a delightful konoba (taverna), only accessible by boat. The setting and the food is outstanding! We took the dinghy, they also have free moorings for dinnerguest yachts. Don't miss Konoba Vidrovaca!

    Vodice (mainland) stopped briefly July 14

    We anchored just outside the breaker near the fuel station. An excellent place to stop for provisioning. Large supermarket, vegetable market, butcher closeby.

Otok Pasman: Uvala Zincena July 14-15

A deep bay but found good anchorage at 8 meters. Peaceful.

Otok Molat: Podgrade July 15-16

Idyllic bay, exceptionally clear water, no houses. Made a barbeque on the cliffs.

Pula July 16-18

Largish industrial city packed with roman buildings. Great market, good anchorage close to marina.

Old entries to this page are in an archive.